Two Hearted River Upper Peninsula
The Two Hearted River, immortalized by Ernest Hemingway, is a quintessential Upper Peninsula river, offering a pristine and remote paddling experience. Known for its clear, cold waters, abundant trout, and wild, forested surroundings, the "Two Heart" is a destination for those seeking solitude and a true wilderness adventure. It flows through undeveloped state forest land and empties into Lake Superior, making it a jewel of Michigan's natural heritage.
It's a largely gentle river, characterized by consistent flows, sandy bottoms, and numerous sweeping bends, making it accessible for intermediate paddlers.
Its character remains fairly consistent throughout its main paddling sections, with occasional swift currents and minor riffles, but no major whitewater.
📍 Location & Access
Main Region
- Luce County, Eastern Upper Peninsula, Michigan
- Near Paradise, Newberry, and Grand Marais
- Mouth: Lake Superior
Key Access Points
🟢 Upper River Access (CR 412 / Dawson Cabin Area)
- Access points around County Road 412 or near the historic Dawson Cabin site.
- Good for starting longer, multi-day trips downstream.
- Remote, requires careful planning for put-in.
🔵 Mid-River Access (CR 407 Bridge / DNR Campground)
- The bridge on County Road 407 provides a common access point.
- Near the Two Hearted River State Forest Campground, which offers amenities.
- Popular for day trips and as an overnight stop for multi-day paddlers.
🔴 Lower River Access (River Mouth / Lighthouse Road)
- Access near the mouth of the river where it meets Lake Superior.
- Often accessed via Lighthouse Road (which leads to the mouth and nearby campground).
- Ideal for shorter paddles to the lake or for take-out for longer trips.
Due to its remote nature, detailed maps and prior scouting are highly recommended.
🧭 River Character
🌲 Entire Length (Wilderness & Forested)
- Generally calm to moderate current, with occasional swift sections and riffles.
- Flows through vast, undeveloped state forest land (pine and hardwood forests).
- Pristine, natural feel with very few signs of human development.
- Excellent for wildlife viewing, especially birds (including eagles) and deer.
- Known for its cold, clear water, ideal for trout fishing.
🌊 No significant whitewater sections.
🏙️ No urban sections; entirely wilderness or rural.
The river's character is consistently wild and remote, offering a peaceful escape.
⚠️ Difficulty Rating
- Upper, Mid, & Lower River: Class I (beginner-friendly to intermediate, moving water)
- Overall: Beginner-friendly to intermediate, depending on length of trip and wind on Lake Superior.
Why it might be challenging:
- Remoteness: Limited cell service and assistance can be far away.
- Logjams/Dams: Occasional natural logjams may require portaging, though no major dams.
- Wind: Can be a factor, especially near Lake Superior, making paddling more strenuous.
- Cold Water: Even in summer, the water is cold, requiring caution if capsizing.
🛶 Recommended Kayaking Experience
🚣 Best Paddling Style
✔ Recreational River Paddling
- Day trips for scenic floats, fishing, and wildlife viewing.
- Multi-day trips with primitive camping options.
- Ideal for those seeking solitude and a true wilderness immersion.
✔ Canoeing
- Perfectly suited for the river's calm nature and for carrying camping gear.
❌ Not a whitewater destination.
🧠 Trip Planning Strategy
🟢 Option 1: Day Trip (CR 407 to Mouth)
- A popular 2-4 hour paddle, offering a good taste of the river.
- Ends at Lake Superior, allowing for a brief exploration of the shoreline.
- Requires shuttle planning between CR 407 and the mouth.
🔵 Option 2: Longer Day Trip (CR 412 to CR 407)
- A more extended day on the water, offering deeper immersion into the wilderness.
- Approximately 4-6 hours, depending on current and stops.
- Requires shuttle between the two bridge access points.
🔴 Option 3: Multi-Day Expedition
- Combine sections, utilizing primitive campsites along the river or at the State Forest Campground.
- Allows for extensive fishing, wildlife observation, and a truly remote experience.
- Requires thorough planning for food, water, and gear, as services are very limited.
🌲 Scenery & Highlights
- Pristine wilderness: Unspoiled forests of pine and hardwoods.
- Clear, cold water: Excellent visibility to the sandy bottom.
- Abundant wildlife: Deer, bear, eagles, various waterfowl, and especially brook and brown trout.
- Hemingway connection: Paddle where the famous author found inspiration.
- Lake Superior mouth: The dramatic meeting of the river with the vast expanse of Lake Superior.
🐻 Hazards & Safety
- Remoteness: Limited or no cell service; assistance can be hours away.
- Logjams: While no major dams, fallen trees can create obstacles, requiring careful navigation or portaging.
- Cold water: Hypothermia is a risk if capsizing, even in summer.
- Wildlife: Be aware of bears and other animals, secure food properly if camping.
- Weather: Sudden changes in weather, especially near Lake Superior, can occur.
Essential gear:
- PFD (mandatory for all)
- Appropriate boat for flatwater/gentle current
- Maps, compass/GPS, knowledge of access points
- Emergency kit, first aid, communication device (satellite messenger for remote areas)
- Sun protection, insect repellent, adequate water and food
📅 Best Time to Paddle
🌸 Spring (April - May)
- Higher water levels from snowmelt, can make currents swifter.
- Cooler temperatures, black flies begin to emerge later in May.
- Good for fishing, but prepare for cooler weather.
☀️ Summer (June - August)
- Warmest temperatures, ideal for paddling and camping.
- Water levels are generally good, but can drop in dry spells.
- Peak season for insects (mosquitoes, black flies), bring repellent.
🍂 Fall (September - October)
- Stunning fall colors, beautiful scenery, fewer insects, and fewer crowds.
- Cooler temperatures, excellent for peaceful paddles and fishing.
- Prepare for colder water and air temperatures.
🧭 Who This River Is For
✔ Ideal For:
- Beginner to intermediate flatwater paddlers seeking solitude.
- Anglers, particularly trout fishermen.
- Nature lovers and those seeking a remote wilderness experience.
- Paddlers interested in literary history (Hemingway).
❌ Not Ideal For:
- Paddlers seeking whitewater thrills.
- Those who require frequent access to amenities or cell service.
🛶 Summary
The Two Hearted River is a truly special waterway offering an immersive wilderness experience:
- Pristine, remote paddling = solitude and connection with nature.
- Exceptional trout fishing = a dream for anglers.
- Beautiful forested scenery = a serene escape.
For paddlers, it provides a perfect combination of:
peaceful flows + natural beauty + remote adventure